Celebrating 150 Years of Audemars Piguet – And the Women Who Made It Timeless

Nel-Olivia Waga
July 29, 2025
in collaboration with

This year, Audemars Piguet celebrates its 150th anniversary, a milestone that invites reflection not only on its innovations and iconic designs but also on the people behind them. And while the Manufacture is often associated with complicated movements and the bold lines of the Royal Oak, it’s also a brand whose history has quietly and powerfully been shaped by women.

That’s a story I personally connect with, and one of the many reasons I’m proud to wear my AP every day.

The Women at the Beginning

Before Audemars Piguet was officially founded in 1875, women in the Vallée de Joux were already contributing to the world of fine watchmaking. They weren’t just assembling parts. They were engraving, decorating, and perfecting movements with incredible attention to detail, often from their own homes during the quiet winter months.

Herbalist, lapidary and woman of character, Suzanne Audemars, known as "la Zanne", lived in one of the most isolated houses in the Vallée de Joux, at a place called Les Derrière-les-Grandes-Roches. Fictional representation in 2025. Image Audemars Piguet.

It’s a part of watch history that’s often overlooked, but it matters. These women laid the groundwork for the kind of precision and beauty that would become a hallmark of the Vallée de Joux, including brands like Audemars Piguet. Their contributions helped shape the high standards of craftsmanship that the region is renowned for, long before their names were ever known.

The watchmakers' route. When the snow melted, the watchmakers travelled from Le Brassus to Geneva on foot or on horseback to deliver the mechanisms they had made during the winter. Image taken from the Atlas of Switzerland 1798 – the path is a more addition.

Reimagining Icons: Jacqueline Dimier’s Royal Oak

In 1976, the Manufacture did something bold. They handed the design of the first women’s Royal Oak to Jacqueline Dimier. She was one of the very few female watch designers in Switzerland at the time, and instead of simply shrinking the iconic Royal Oak, she completely reinterpreted it.

1976. Royal Oak I and II advertisement. Published in the German magazine Der Spiegel in October 1976, this ad presents the two models that constituted the full Royal Oak collection back then: 5402 (as early as 1972) and 8638 (1976) – both available only in steel. Audemars Piguet Archives

What she created was powerful yet refined. Feminine, but never delicate. It carried the same strong lines and unapologetic design of the original, with a new kind of wearability that felt modern, intentional, and confident.

Circa 1985. Jacqueline Dimier. Jacqueline Dimier joined Audemars Piguet in 1975 as a stylist and designed hundreds of models for the brand over a period of 20 years, including the first ladies' Royal Oak (8638) watches. Audemars Piguet Archives.

Collaboration, Craft and Carolina Bucci

More recently, AP has continued to champion female creativity, not just internally but through artistic collaboration. One of the most inspiring examples is the work with Carolina Bucci, the Florentine jewelry designer who brought a completely new texture and energy to the Royal Oak.

Her Frosted Gold editions use a traditional hand-hammering technique that turns gold into something that sparkles like it’s been dusted with diamonds, without using a single stone. It’s craftsmanship, but also artistry. And it’s unapologetically feminine in the best way.

Small but Strong: The Mini Royal Oak

In 2024, AP launched the Mini Royal Oak. With its ultra-compact size and quartz movement, it might seem like a playful addition, but the design language remains just as serious. It’s proof that elegance doesn’t require scale, and that a watch designed for women can be just as sharp and self-assured as any other in the collection.

For many of us, the appeal of a smaller piece isn’t about being dainty. It’s about balance. About strength in subtlety.

AP Today

This latest development is not about ticking boxes or making something “for women.” It’s about recognising that women have always been part of the story, and giving them the space to leave their mark.

And that’s exactly what Audemars Piguet has done, again and again, over the past 150 years. Wearing it on my wrist isn’t just a personal pleasure. It’s a quiet celebration of that legacy.

Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet: A Space That Honors Legacy

If you ever plan to visit Vallee de Joux, visiting the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet is a must (by appointment only). Designed by Bjarke Ingels Group, the spiral-shaped glass pavilion blends architecture, nature, and horology into one seamless experience. Walking through its curved galleries, you don’t just see complications and craftsmanship, you feel the soul of the valley, the generations of artisans, and that touch of feminine energy we’ve been talking about.

HER/etiquette

Founded in 2014 and reimagined in 2019 by Nel-Olivia Waga, HER/etiquette is an international blog rooted in Zurich, and shaped by conscious luxury. It explores global trends and everyday rituals across art, longevity, wellness, innovation, beauty, and design, highlighting brands and individuals who bring meaning and creative solutions to modern living.

Nel-Olivia Waga is the Founder & Publisher of HER/etiquette. She is a Brand Consultant, Author, and Entrepreneur. Her work regularly appears in her FORBES column. She is also the founder of YMPACT LAB, a consultancy that develops innovative concepts for global brands with a focus on purpose and impact.

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CONSCIOUS LUXURY

#ConsciousLuxury is the theme of HER ETIQUETTE. We spotlight pioneers who rethink excellence through transparency, intention, and care for both people and planet. Each story opens a window into what drives meaningful change, whether it’s a new perspective, a responsible approach, or a quiet detail that speaks volumes. It’s our way of inviting more depth into the way we experience modern life.

 

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